The Truth About Skin Cycling
If you fall into the skin savvy category of our patients, there’s a high probability that you’ve seen the term “skin cycling” floating around on social media. You may have noticed the hashtag #skincycling as part of influencers skin care regimens on Instagram or, viewed one of the more than 122.3M videos mentioning skin-cycling on Tik Tok. So, what is skin cycling and should you be incorporating this practice into your daily regimen?
Most of our patients have mastered the basics (cleanse, tone, moisturize, protect) but can easily get tripped up when adding more targeted, complex products into their regimens. There’s been a ton of confusion on social media surrounding how to layer active ingredients which has resulted in skin irritation and lack of product efficacy. Skin cycling can help simplify your routine while also ensuring you’re getting maximum results.
What is skin cycling?
Skin cycling is the process of incorporating different actives into your routine during a three-to four-day cycle to prevent irritation and optimize results. It allows for “rest days” during the week giving your skin the opportunity to heal and repair itself after using certain active ingredients. This process can be especially beneficial for those new to using actives and also provides a high level of skin care customization.
To get started you’ll need;
· An exfoliator (chemical such as salicylic, glycolic, or lactobionic acid)
· A retinoid (retinoic acid, retinol, or retinaldehyde)
· A growth factor (crucial for repairing and rebuilding skin)
· A moisturizer (ideally containing hyaluronic acid)
Below is a night-by-night how-to skin cycle:
Night #1: Exfoliate
When skin cycling, order matters! Exfoliating helps to dissolve the outermost layer of skin and increases product penetration. Additionally, exfoliating helps boost collagen contributing to a smoother, more youthful complexion. While a gentle physical exfoliant works, ideally a blend of chemical exfoliation that includes AHA’s, BHA’s, and PHA’s will provide superior results.
The most widely used AHA’s are glycolic and lactic acids while salicylic and mandelic acids are the most popular BHA’s for their ability to treat acne-prone skin. For more sensitive skin types, galactose and lactobionic acids are gentler PHA alternatives. It’s not advisable to layer acids, instead look for a product that contains one or all of the above mentioned.
Perform a double-cleanse using an oil or cream-based cleanser followed by a foaming cleanser.
Gently pat skin dry then apply a thin layer of your preferred exfoliant to face, neck, décolletage. Allow to dry completely.
After the product has fully penetrated, use a non-active toner/hydrator to prep skin for moisturization.
Moisturize using an appropriate moisturizer for your skin type/condition. If your skin tends to be prone to dryness/dehydration apply a thin layer of hyaluronic acid before moisturizing.
Apply a thin layer of eye cream or serum to the entire orbital ring.
Night #2: Retinoids
Next in line are our beloved retinoids which can include over-the-counter retinol products or, a prescription-grade retinoid like tretinoin. Both retinoids and exfoliants increase cell turnover but their mechanisms of action are quite different. Retinoids work on the receptors in the skin while exfoliants clear away surface skin cells making them an important first step.
If you’re brand-new to using retinoids it’s recommended to start using either an over-the-counter product or a .025% prescription-strength to reduce sensitivity and irritation. As your skin acclimates you can gradually work up to higher strengths as tolerated. For safety reasons we recommend our patients speak to one of our highly trained skin experts before incorporating retinoids into their regimen.
Perform a double-cleanse using an oil or cream-based cleanser followed by a foaming cleanser.
Gently pat skin dry then apply a thin layer of your preferred retinoid to face, neck, décolletage. For sensitive areas (eyes, nostrils, and lips) we recommended applying a thin layer of moisturizer or occlusive to avoid irritation. Allow retinoid to dry completely, ideally 30 minutes.
Use a non-active toner/hydrator to prep skin for moisturization.
Moisturize using an appropriate moisturizer for your skin type/condition. If your skin tends to be prone to dryness/dehydration apply a thin layer of hyaluronic acid before moisturizing.
Apply a thin layer of eye cream or serum to the entire orbital ring.
Night #3: Repair
On repair nights the focus is to provide necessary ingredients to help support skin regrowth and renew. The goal of night 3 is to repair the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin) that was compromised during nights 1 and 2. On repair nights, you’ll skip the exfoliants and retinoids and instead replace them with a serum containing growth factors and skin building ingredients.
This break from active ingredients is how you’ll prevent over-exfoliating and retinol reactions such as sensitivity or dermatitis. Repair nights also provide a great opportunity to help rebalance the skin's microbiome and provide much needed nourishment and hydration.
Perform a double-cleanse using an oil or cream-based cleanser followed by a foaming cleanser.
Gently pat skin dry then apply a serum containing growth factors to your face, neck, and décolletage.
After the product has fully penetrated, usually 2-5 minutes, use a non-active toner/hydrator to prep skin for moisturization.
Moisturize using an appropriate moisturizer for your skin type/condition. If your skin tends to be prone to dryness/dehydration apply a thin layer of hyaluronic acid before moisturizing.
Apply a thin layer of eye cream or serum to the entire orbital ring.
Night #4: Recover
Recovery nights are focused on hydration, moisture, and rebuilding the skin's barrier. An intact skin barrier is essential from both a health, and cosmetic standpoint. The skin barrier protects from trans-epidermal-water-loss, infection, and irritating allergens. Research suggests a compromised barrier can play a large role in a wide variety of skin issues ranging from dermatitis, to acne.
Over-exfoliating and powerful retinoids can harm the skin's barrier making rest daysan essential part of a healthy complexion. Recovery nights are especially important during the winter months as cold air and dry climates suck moisture out of the skin. Skin cycling helps prevent moisture loss allowing your skin to handle environmental elements more efficiently.
Perform a double-cleanse using an oil or cream-based cleanser followed by a foaming cleanser.
Saturate skin with a toner/hydrator to prep skin for moisturization.
Apply a hydrating serum containing hyaluronic acid to damp skin or, an nighttime specific antioxidant serum.
Moisturize using an appropriate moisturizer for your skin type/condition.
Apply a thin layer of eye cream or serum to the entire orbital ring.
How long do you need to skin cycle?
The goal of skin cycling is to minimize the common side effects of many widely popular active ingredients. When it comes to optimal skin health, consistency not necessarily frequency is the name of the game. When incorporating actives into your regimen you minimize the chance of unwanted results by taking the slow-and-steady approach. Gradually increasing the frequency of application will allow you to monitor how your skin is reacting to specific ingredients. You don’t necessarily need to use actives like AHA’s and retinoids daily to yield phenomenal results.
Should everyone skin cycle?
Not necessarily. As your skin becomes more tolerant you can shorten the cycle and use actives more frequently. If your skin is already acclimated to actives and you’re seeing great results, then skin cycling likely won’t offer additional benefits. The most common issue that people experience is difficulty getting their skin adjusted to using stronger ingredients. Individuals with sensitive/reactive skin find it nearly impossible to use powerful actives nightly without experiencing unwanted side effects. If you’re looking to add ingredients like retinoids and acids into your current regimen or your skin tends to be dry/sensitive/reactive, it may be worth giving skin cycling a try!
Final Thoughts
An effective skincare regimen requires a customized, targeted approach based on a patient’s individual skin needs. Cycling through active ingredients and allowing ample time for skin recovery has been shown to be a safe way to introduce stronger, more efficacious products into your routine without irritation. As always, listen to your skin! If at any point you find yourself breaking out or suffering from irritation, scale back the frequency of use or put your skin care routine on hold. Regardless of skin type/condition it's always recommended to consult with a skin expert before starting a new regimen.
Glowing skin is always in! Ready to take your skincare game to the next level? Book a consultation with one of our knowledgeable professionals who will help create a customized plan to achieve your best skin yet!
Learn more about our skincare services here or contact our San Francisco office and call us at 415.409.6500.